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Thread: Barfing Radiator

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by ilovetheusers View Post

    Green, never mixed. Ty for info btw, did not know.

    Fluid in reservoir is gone before I see it, but nothing weird in the reservoir container I can see. No crud, will verify later.

    Nothing on cap when low, just residue from antifreeze. Not foamy, not slimy (thick stuff), not gritty. Have used stop leak (the pellets and the powder at different times), but that's gone as soon as it heats up.


    Ty to you for the write up. Ty to all.
    No problem.

    The reason I asked he questions about the cap is I wanted to know if you or the previous owner had used stop leak. This changes things when diagnosing cooling problems. However, I do not think in your case this matters as I believe the problem is elsewhere

  2. #22
    Senior Member ilovetheusers's Avatar
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    Sorry, didn't follow up with this and you're putting effort into it...

    OK, radiator is wet near top after trip to burbs other day. It's got a hole in it that some kind of chemi gunk isn't going to fix. I need to get it replaced...

    Still burns oil at high rate, nothing new. Feel fairly confident once radiator is replaced one day that it'll be much better off. Must do before it gets warm again.

  3. #23
    Junior Member Joopster's Avatar
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    I had a similar problem on my jeep - while I thought it was a thermostat it ended up being my radiator. I did it in the garage and that solved my problem.

    I would make sure thermostat is working correctly and that you have plenty of fluid. Even if you have fluid and you ran it low/out it may have air in the system - bleed it properly.

  4. #24
    Senior Member slgrieb's Avatar
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    Chances are you can buy a new radiator for under $150, but about anything you get these days is going to be aluminum instead of copper. What you might consider, if you can localized the leak, is to use epoxy putty to seal it. Clean thoroughly with a wire brush and follow the manufacturer's directions for the putty.

    Back when I worked in the marine towing business, we used Red Hand on everything that frickin' leaked. Stuffing boxes, cracks in the hull, you name it, we Red Handed it. If your radiator has been cooling well except for the leak, I think I'd try to salvage it.
    Yes, Mr. Death... I'll play you a game! But not CHESS !!! BAH... FOOEY! My game is...
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  5. #25
    Senior Member JaxSon's Avatar
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    If you're convinced radiator is bad, find a local business that specializes in those. I had mine removed, repaired and reinstalled in a couple of hours. Cost $110.

  6. #26
    Senior Member slgrieb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JaxSon View Post
    If you're convinced radiator is bad, find a local business that specializes in those. I had mine removed, repaired and reinstalled in a couple of hours. Cost $110.
    Around these parts radiator service seems to be a dying art. There is one radiator shop in town, but they are so busy fabricating big radiators for pump engines and the like, they don't want to touch a car or truck anymore. Good suggestion on the repair, though. It's still likely to be better repaired than most of the new stuff.
    Yes, Mr. Death... I'll play you a game! But not CHESS !!! BAH... FOOEY! My game is...
    WIFFLEBALL!

  7. #27
    forum fool 3fingersalute's Avatar
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    Never really figured my daughter's car out either. Took it to the mechanic, it was there for a few weeks, he was never able to reproduce the problem. He told me the head gasket is fine, he pressure tested the coolant system and it lost almost nothing overnight. He did replace a bad idle control module and also a bad intake gasket (which corrected the super-high idle its had for some time). Maybe there was air in it, not sure what the problem was but hopefully it doesn't resurface......
    "Expose yourself to your deepest fear; after that, fear has no power, and the fear of freedom shrinks and vanishes. You are free." - Jim Morrison

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